Lazy and not so Lazy days in the department of Chinandega

Looking for a new place to visit and having three days to dedicate we decided to head to Chinandega. Really want to go to Corn Island and Pearl Lagoon, but they will have to wait for when we have more time. What swayed our vacation towards Chinandega was primarily the Padre Ramos Estuary and it didn't disappoint.

Lodging:

We considered staying at the beach but wanted to have at least some connection to the city. We choose Hotel Los Portales as our home base, and it didn't disappoint. It was a cool little retreat within an incredible hot city, I had heard how hot it was, and we chose about the worst time of the year to go. March and April being among the hottest months of the year. The hotel has a wonderful pool, and we were the only ones ever in it during our stay. We were very lucky to get rooms 101 & 102 connecting rooms and right in front of the pool. Getting to the city of Chinandega is easy and any country map will show you the way. The hotel was right off the main road, off the rotunda.

Cool, refreshing pool

Activities:

Chilling by the pool: Initially simply hanging out by the pool and surviving the heat. We ventured into the city of Chinandega on our way to Jiquilillo, the city is nice, confusing one ways to get out of town, had to loop around a couple of times. Our GPS wasn't very helpful as to which streets were one way, and we got plenty of funny looks from folks in town. Quick tour of Chinandega City: We got out in the required Cathedral and Town Square, every city in Nicaragua has one. The park was nice, but what we were more impressed with was the playground area. Beautiful equipment and clean. When we passed it at night we noticed how well light and well used it was. No surprise there weren't many kids out during the day, the heat makes everyone hide out. To get out of town we ended up following a bus headed to Jiquilillo and found a fun, Nicaraguan, helpful graffiti  to demonstrate that this street, indeed was two ways.

Helpful Nicaraguan graffiti

We take any help we can get. The drive to Jiquilillo was filled with majestic volcanoes and constant sugar cane production, most if not all destined to the Flor de Caña factory in nearby Chichigalpa. We opted not to do the tour, although Don does enjoy Flor de Caña and I'm sure it is an impressive production, didn't think the kids would enjoy it. The turn off the Jiquilillo is a nicer than usual Nicaraguan dirt road, still rough going, but a very good road. 

Horses also cooling off

Enjoying a cool break running on the waves

Rancho Esperanza: In Juquilillo we first went to Rancho Esperanza to hang out at the beach and have lunch with them. Great lunch, wonderful set up, impressive social efforts and awesome beach. We had a great 3-4 hours of peaceful beach hangout activities before continuing to the highlight of the day, kayaking the Padre Ramos Estuary. Padre Ramos Estuary Kayaking: We hired a guide, David, from Ibin Kayaking www.ibiskayaking.com 505-8961-8548. We met David in front of a pulperia in the following community of Los Zorros, he joined us in our truck and showed us the way to the Ibis Kayaking location and the entrance to the estuary. Although tourism is yet to breakthrough here, he says they do 3-4 kayak tours a week, and in the busy season (Jan/Feb) he has tours everyday, with multiple on a single day. They also offer overnight camping trips where you kayak for 3 hours, set up camp, kayak around the island, sleep, break down camp and make your way slowly back. When we arrived, I was planning when we could return to do that, but at the end I was glad we were only paddling for 3 hours in total. It was hard work!

Serene, beautiful

Crazy, tight, difficult, fun, silly

Hard, beautiful work. I think this was the cleanest spot in all of Nicaragua. Of course, there are very few communities polluting it, tourism hasn't really reached it, and it is far away from the typical, popular route. I kinda hope it stays that way. The tour around the estuary was fabulous, peaceful and complete silly all at the same time. We got to spots that were so tight to paddle we used the roots of the mangroves to pull ourselves along. Quick tour of Puerto Corinto: As we (Selva Negra) export coffee through Puerto Corinto, we wanted to take a look at the city and check out the port. The next morning, after a refreshing play in the pool and lazy breakfast, we headed to Puerto Corinto. We had studied Ruben Dario and how was inspired by the lovely islands around Puerto Corinto to write "Margarita" It is my favorite poem from childhood. I remember my dad reciting it to me and could associate with the lighthouse in the distance and the beauty of the infinity of union between sky and ocean. I know, a silly emotional personal moment, but true. I had Henry and Hanna recite the poem with me as we hung out by the beach in Corinto, but the moment was totally lost to the brutal heat. We rather quickly jumped back in the back and the refuge of the air conditioning but never really recovered. We drove around the road in front of the port, but of course everything is fenced off. We probably could have asked if there were any tours we could do, but none of us were convinced we wanted to get out of the car. We also nixed the idea of having lunch in town and headed back to Leon, and then back to Matagalpa, dreaming of cooler air that didn't burn our lungs. In Leon we stopped to eat lunch and get ice cream but it was also brutal hot.

Silly pose by the port entrance

Food:

The first place we ate on day one was at YaVoy in Leon on our way to the hotel. Better than average food selection, which burritos and quiche on the menu, good natural drinks and a nice courtyard, but still kind of average compared to the great restaurant selection in Leon. For dinner that night we left Chinandega and went back to Leon because we wanted to try Alioli, a tapas restaurant where Selva Negra sells cheeses. It was impressively good, food seasoned amazingly, wonderful, varied selection of tapas and a small front dining terrace where you can escape the heat. Yes, even after dusk the heat is oppressive. Lunch the next day was at Rancho Esperanza and it was an amazingly huge salad with boiled eggs and a giant side order of beautiful sun ripened fruit. Just what we needed in a hot day. After our hot and exhausting adventure in Padre Ramos Estuary we had pizza for dinner next to the hotel Pizza Maria I think it was called. A shared space with Pollo Tropical, the pizza was surprisingly good (compared to Nicaragua pizza) but the service and setting left a lot to be desired. Yet, right next to our hotel, it was nice to get quickly back to the peaceful and refreshing pool. On our way back to Matagalpa we ate at our favorite place in Leon, Pan y Paz. Selva Negra also sells our cheeses here, but that's not why we love it. The food is fresh, the bread amazing, the service quick and friendly. I had an amazing smoked salmon sandwich and a super refreshing melon drink. Yet, the heat made it hard to linger, we quickly rushed around the corner to Besame Ice Cream, originally from our hometown of Matagalpa, and headed back to the cool refreshing North. In Leon/Chinandega it was easily 42C, back at Selva Negra a refreshing 26C.

Our vacation to Chinandega and Leon.

We left Selva Negra Sunday morning to head to Chinandega. It took us a grueling 3 hours to get there. On the way to Chinandega, we stopped in Leon. Leon is the university town of Nicaragua. There was a very well maintained park in the middle of the city. I was impressed by the vibrant colors and playground. 

 There was a "Castle" in the park that was shut, and had boards over the windows. We asked some of the locals about it, and it turned out that it was an arcade that was only open at night. We drove by it later, at night, and saw it open.

We stopped for a picture with the cathedral in the center of Chinandega.

Once we arrived at the hotel, we checked in, and dropped off our luggage. We then got in the pool. 

After having swum in the pool for a while, we left to get dinner in Leon. We went to a Spanish restaurant called Alioli. We had five appetizer plates for the five of us, and it felt fancy because they were taken out one at a time, which gave us time to finish the first one before moving onto the next one.

The second day, we went to Jiquilillo to go kayaking. Jiquilillo is a small town down a dirt road in the northern part of Nicaragua. We went with our guide, David, to where the kayaks were. Again, down a dirt road. Once we got the kayaks to the shore, he gave us a lesson on how to use the rudder in the back of the kayak. He explained that they were sea kayaks, and that was necessary for kayaking here.

There were two types of mangroves, Black and Red. The black mangroves are the ones with the roots sticking out of the ground. The red ones have their roots shoot from the trunk of an already existing tree to the ground.

We paddled from the shore, across the lake, and to the entrance of a good size river. The river slowly thinned, until there was an entrance to a channel that was only one kayak wide. This was one of the coolest experiences I've ever had. We almost had to turn our paddles completely vertical just to fit through the gap. this went on for about twenty minutes, us getting more tired all the while. We didn't realize it though, because we were having so much fun. 

Once we made it out of the mangroves, we were getting tired, and Hanna was complaining that she had to go to the bathroom. The row back, was arduous, to say the least. And, even at full speed, me and dad couldn't catch Hanna and Astoria who had the guide's help.

Some of the fishermen of Jiquilillo go out in the evening. I managed to take a picture of one as they hit a wave.

Here is a picture we took next to a sugar cane field.

To conclude, it was a fun and exciting vacation, and we all had a great time. i'm looking forward to the next time we get to do something like this.

Trip to Chocoyero

Me and dad went to Chocoyero Nature reserve on the 20th of February. we went with the boy scouts for a day hike, and not to camp overnight. The road in was horribly bumpy and seemed to go on forever. I think we were on it for about twenty minutes, but it felt like forever. I don't think four wheel drive was necessary for this road, but i'm pretty sure it would be during the rain! Once we arrived, we had a talk about the day trip with Scoutmaster Brian, then we set off to hike.

We hiked for about half an hour, then we came to the waterfall. it was cool, and stood at, by my estimate, over 75 feet tall. The water fall was quite impressive, because the forest seemed to open up, to reveal the cliffs and the waterfall.

 We took a fifteen minute break by a large Matapalo tree, to let the others catch up. Shortly after our break, we continued into this open area, that revealed that we were in a valley, and there were mountains on either side

It was a fun day trip, but i was disappointed that we came at the wrong time, and didn't see the parrots. Apparently, if you are there at dawn or dusk, hundreds of parrots will leave their nests in the cliffs, and fly above your heads. We had a good time and it was a good day, and I would call the hike Easy-Medium, because it was mostly flat, and only took 1 1/2-2 hours.

Chocoyero

The waterfall

I went to Chocoyero on a girl scout trip February 13. The drive there was very confusing and we thought we were lost all the time. In the end we found our way to the wooden building deep in the middle of nowhere. Inside The have snakes (dead ones of course) in jars with liquid to keep them from rooting. They also have animal skulls and bugs in glass cases. Then when the whole group was there we started hiking the guide pointed out several interesting things. Such as a owl and rubber tree. Then at the highlight of the hike you reach the waterfall it isn't very big but it's in this big dip in the mountain that's beautiful. Tons of beautiful birds live in holes in stone and you can see them fly about. When you walk back there's this big tree that is perfect for photos. All of the girls loved the hike and the scenery.

Our group photo

Helping kids learn rainbow loom

So today Wednesday instead of school, my parents had me help teach kids at Selva Negra how to do Rainbow loom bracelets. So I went to a house with two girls who I am guessing are around ten. My grandma (the owner of the farm) drove me to the house and introduced me to the girls. We sat down and I showed them who to do a single the easiest one. Then I passed the loom to one of the girls and had her do it. She had obviously been paying attention because she caught on fast and did the bracelet super quick. Then she passed it to her sister who also finished very fast. So I decided to give them something harder. For the record I only know two different designs and they are the two easiest. So I showed them the harder design and they mastered it really fast and the first thing I think is what else do  I show them? So I try to sow them another design but that just falls apart. So I just have them keep working on the harder one until my grandma comes to pick me up. Then I chatted with my relatives in the car until my grandma drops me off. Then I  walked to my house and wrote this but that was kind of self explanatory. I took pictures and I couldn't get them off the phone and it was really dark where I was so no pictures till I can get my dad to help me.

Cerro Negro - Leon

We have been to Leon several times as day trips, a few overnights. This particular trip we went as part of a Girls Scout outing to hike the Cerro Negro volcano. Meeting point and time was 9:00AM at the UNO by the exit to Managua, 3 hours from Selva Negra. So, we decided to arrive the night before instead of waking up at 4AM. We stayed at the Convento Hotel, it is a lovely, comfortable place to stay. Central yet quiet. Hanna loved the big comfortables beds as well as all the extra pillows, "fancy" shampoo and hot shower. She loves fancy hotels. We went out for dinner to "Al Carbon" a steakhouse down the street from El Convento. We are meat eaters, we eat our vegetables too, but we love a good steakhouse. We shared a massive platter for 4. All the cuts of meat were very thin and lightly seasoned, accompanied by a range of delicious relishes, beans, baked potatoes, and tostones. Nothing green on the entire plate! We loved it, but all decided we needed to eat a salad soon.

Morning breakfast was big and yummy, loves of fruit choices, pastries, omelets, cereal, etc... Fully fueled we met up with the gang at the UNO and headed to Cerro Negro with our guide, Freddy. The way there is easy to find and asking will get you the whole way, so I won't detail any directions. Now, as a sidebar, I'm afraid of heights, I HATE heights, I hate the feeling in my stomach, I hate my squirmy knees, I hate the feeling of helplessness and desperation that it generates in me, but I like a good hike with good friends in interesting environments. The only thing worse than me being up on high places, is me seeing my kids up in high places. I was set to not go at all! I had heard stories from Don and Henry from when they went volcano boarding with the Boy Scouts, and knew this was not for me. I went to watch and take pictures at the bottom, but as it turned out they weren't volcano boarding, but up and down for a good hike. Now I was interested, still scared, but interested. I still have to walk back down. I made a deal with Don and my friends for them to walk near the kids and let me do my own thing. It worked out great. Keeping up with part of the group kept me entertained and my mind off the worst of it. Even so I had a couple of times that I really didn't know how I was going to get out of there. The ground started moving under my feet, the world started spinning and I thought I was going to faint. At one point I even yelled at one of the girl scouts not to talk to me, cause I really couldn't have any distractions if I was going to take another step. The hike up is challenging, it is hot and steep. Walking on big rocks with only a sample of a path to follow. When you get to the top, the walk becomes easier, the views amazing, but the exposure and "near death" experiences begin. Suddenly the wind starts whipping around, you walk on a small path with a rocky fall on one side and a predice to the volcanic crater on the other. Not the fun part for me at all. The way down was tough at the beginning, but became easier as I got the hang of it. Knowing I was almost done was a great help too.

I survived, and grateful for friends who encouraged me to go on the hike. The kids had a wonderful time and it really is a one in a lifetime opportunity. Hiking an ash volcanoe like this one is truly an amazing thing.

The hike up

The tiny ridge between life and death.

This wing the death side, that is the crater fuming down there.

Those tiny figures out there is Hanna with her besties.

Me, wondering how the heck I got talked into this.

Henry hanging out at the top.

One of the many amazing views

The lava flow from the 1971 eruption

Amazing lava flow marked. Those paths you see are the trails we're following.

What your shoes and legs will look like at the end of the hike.

Those dots on the hills are us walking down

Trip to Cerro Negro and León

We left on Saturday evening to go to León. The plan was to go with the girl scouts to Cerro Negro on Sunday, then return to selva negra Monday night. We stayed in Hotel El Contnvento in León. the hotel is very nice, and so is the place where we went to dinner, Al Carbon. It is a very nice steak and coffee house in león. the atmosphere is nice, and the food was great.

The next day, we went to Cerro Negro to go volcano boarding. we left early in the morning, and met the girl scouts at the ranger's lodge. At the ranger's lodge, i was informed that we were going to be running down the volcano instead of boarding down it. I was dissapointed, because when i had gone last time, we had boarded down. It turned out that i find running to be more fun then boarding, because when you but your foot down, you can slide for a few meters before having to put it back down again.  when we got to the bottom, of the volcano, we took a group picture

it took us almost 40 minutes to get up the volcano, and that's without the wind that we had last time. when i went with the boy scouts, there was a wind that seemed to be desperately trying to fling us into the crater of the volcano and doom us to a really long hike up.

dad took two pictures from the bottom of the volcano, one facing each side. here they are

These pictures are in the exact same place, isn't it amazing? when we reached the top, the view was as amazing as i remember it. we were at the top waiting for the others to come, when Allison(one of the girl scouts) slid a good way down the mountain. we tried everything we could think of to get her back up, but nothing worked. so i decided to go down with her. I had a great time even though it was the two of us, and we ended up without water, we re-joined with the group about an hour later. after that, we went to León for lunch. and then we went to Managua.